Il Mulino New York New York City

Il Mulino New York sits at 86 W 3rd St. It is a five-minute walk from the core of Greenwich Village and Washington Square Park.

This Italian and seafood institution operates with a level of formality that the surrounding neighborhood has largely abandoned. While the nearby streets favor the casual, quick-turn approach of the modern bistro, the room here remains unapologetically formal and dressier than its neighbors. The service is heavy-handed and the pacing is deliberate, making it a better choice for a long, structured dinner than for a spontaneous bite after a walk through SoHo. It is an artifact of a vanishing era in the city's dining scene, demanding a commitment to the table that most of its casual downtown peers actively try to discourage.